...
cos its rather disconcerting to get one of the little so and sos
to grab it or squash it
and find a smear of blood on oneself or the wall
cos its most likely some of either of ours' blood
...
yes its a bit hmmm...
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Kanchi
Last of our temple towns
P is not well, and templed out, and deadlined
So its me in the hot dry and shabby streets of this poor and flyblown town of friendliness and mess where few tourists stay overnight
And there’s five temples
…
The Kailasanatha, one of the two famous temples, is chiefly famous cos its so old … but only so much to look at or feel… and there's only tourists there for its antiqueness... inside tha high wall around it the wall is lined with intricate carving... and behind the carvings are little person-sized niches for unobserved meditation
While the Sri Ekambaranathar is big and much used and crowded, is a living thing... black shirted men in black slightly embroidered dhotis swarm in lines towards it, intent with devotion and excited by the proximity of the hallowed
And the Vaikantha Perrumal is just as old as the Kailasanatha but has a great cloistered feel … and, academically, might be where the Mandapam style first kicked off
And I’m wondering… this year I’ve been to Norwich Cathedral… and those gorgeous Chinese temples in Vietnam… and the stupas in Lao… and Notre Dame in Montreal... and temple after great temple in Chiang Mai… and so, well, how do they compare?
And the best answer is, they don’t
Norwich was big and high and cool and beautiful and slow and empty and clean
The Chinese temples were cool and ultra-intricate and clean and exceptionally beautiful
And the temples here, in Trichy, Kumbakonam, etc, are old and shabby-edged and cool and… which makes them different, massly devotional… full of people of crowds and swarms and lines
And Notre Dame is beautiful and coloured and trippy and calm and cool and slow
…
but its all about the feel, don’t you think?
so it’s the Chinese temples in Vietnam, or Norwich, or Notre Dame which have had the most effect on me
…
For some reason they throw bags of puffed rice in the giant temple tank at Sri Ekambaranathar
And the fish go mad for them
In movie piranha style frenzy
Hundred of dark shapes beneath the bubbling water
Jumping over the bag in excitement
and for some other reason
unlike anywhere else
they paint the bullocks' horns
cos in many cities its the same pair of long horned bullock pulling the carts
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